Chikankaari…400 years celebrated Chikan craft from Lucknow. In the present moment is able to maintain a Global presence which is a matter of pride. The fashion arena nowadays counts Chikankaari as an essential style statement. Decency and charm of Chikan outfits are nowhere found but in Lucknow.
An art form with 36 different stitching techniques…would you believe? That is what Chikankaari is… an unbelievable game. Adorned with pearl, mukaish, tiny bits of mirror, it looks magical.
Earlier, in its traditional form, it was handcrafted only on white cloth with light threads. As time passed it earned fame and the variety grew lavishly. It is now accomplished at various fabrics with many beautiful threads.
The central hub of Chikankaari is Lucknow. It was originated here at the City of Nawabs. With time, the love for Chikankaari scattered Globally. Especially in India, it is now considered as a royal piece of work and an elegant outfit.
Royal History of Chikankaari
Chikan literally means embroidery. According to a few historians, Chikan existed since 3rd Century AD, when there was a hold of Chandragupta Maurya. However, the exact origin of this art is still unknown.
People even say that Chikan was brought to India in the 17th Century by the Mughals. This was a Persian craft earlier. Jahangir’s spouse Noor Jahan was very fond of embroidery. She had a passion for Chikankaari embroidery. Even Jahangir was fascinated by Chikankaari and lavished it with his royal patronage.
To take this art into perfection, the Mughal emperor Jahangir left no effort. He organized several workshops to make Chikankaari exemplary, and so that artists can train themselves additionally.
Earlier Malmal and other rich fabrics were used for Chikankaari. Later after, many fabrics were counted, including cotton which is the best now.
When the Empire came to a downfall, all the artists spread over India and founded centres to re-establish Chikan. It was in the 18-19th century. The primary hub has only been in Lucknow.
A Persian nobleman Burhan Ul Malk, Governor of Awadh also contributed to restore this art and bring back its lost glory. Chikan still glorifies Lucknow.
Beautiful Florals
If you’ll note the designs of Chikankaari, you will see the embroidery is on flowers mainly. There are hardly any garments in Lucknavi Chikan which doesn’t have floral patterns on them. This is the main design and people literally go crazy for it. The reason behind flowers design is Chikankaari has a strong influence of Persian aesthetics, and in Persian, flowers do play an important role. It also includes buti, leaves, stem, bael, etc. Bringing flowers and stem to the fabric is awe-inspiring.
Art at the Backstage…
Let is peep at how this intricate designing is done.
The embroiders work too hard. Detailing of the craft requires dedication, focus and obviously creativity too. Yet they remain at the backstage.
36 types of stitches and various stages it goes through. Let us have a look at the basic 3 stages of Chikankaari preparation-
Block Printing: Firstly, the design is made on the cloth. The designed part is cut and pasted on wooden blocks. There are wooden stamps prepared with different designs embossed. The embossed part is dipped into blue ink and then using the block, the design is printed on the cloth.
Embroidery: Now the fabric has the design to be embroidered. The cloth is loose and so the artist fixes a frame around the designer part and starts the embroidery. They do it part by part, fixing frames and it takes a lot of time.
Final Stage-Washing: When the embroidery word is done the fabric is washed. The printed patterns have to be removed. After this starch is applied to cloth for stiffness.
What finally comes out is an amazing piece of Chikankaari.
There are different numbers of Lucknow Chikankaari stitches as well which are used in one single pattern.
Interesting Facts
Chikan embroidery is highly technical and only trained artisans are able to do. They get training for around 20 years to be a perfect skilled artist of Chikan.
If the design is way too complicated, then the embroidery may take up to 10 days to finish.
Two most famous artisans of Lucknow for Chikankaari are Ustad Faiyaaz Khan and Hasan Mirza Saheb. Under them, a lot of students have learned Chikankaari.
Chikankaari for all
It’s a myth that Chikan outfits are only for women. Actually, it is for men as well. Now a day’s kids Chikanwear, men’s Chikan Kurta are available in many varieties and range. For ladies not only kurta, but anarkali, kurtis, sarees and even Chikankaari lehengas are available.
It is suggested to buy Chikan dresses from Lucknow as you get here at best price. Elsewhere prices are doubled by the shopkeepers. However, many Lucknowites have started to see Chikan Dresses outside the city at a reasonable cost.
Best Market to buy Chikan Outfits
Everywhere in Lucknow, you’ll find stunning Chikan dresses. But it is advised to better buy these from Old Lucknow. Chowk is the best place for Chikankaari shopping. The reason is, the artists are found here and so you can buy directly from them which will cost you less and, in a way, you will be helping the artist as they are underpaid, which is a matter of concern.
